On www.worldsworstoildisaster.org.
With all the simple to sophisticated ides for capping the BP oil well floating around out there, I remind myself that often the best solution to a problem is the simplest one. Just like my forced hot water circulator flange invention that succeeded when numerous other attempts to solve a particular problem had failed, I believe my flange idea to cap the well in the Gulf can save the day.
My invention story about circulator flanges is relevant to the solution to capping the oil well in the Gulf of Mexico and is just as simple, if not invisible to the eye. Here are the flanges:
[img]http://www.hvaccomplaints.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Taco_production_sweat__iron_flanges1_resized_61010.jpg.resize.jpeg[/img]
With all the simple to sophisticated ides for capping the BP oil well floating around out there, I remind myself that often the best solution to a problem is the simplest one. Just like my forced hot water circulator flange invention that succeeded when numerous attempts to solve a particular problem had failed, my flanged valve solution to the Gulf oil leak can save the day.
My latest flange design is so simple I bet everybody at BP didn't even think of it. It's like not thinking about your nose on your face, but it is there. Here's the image of my rough sketch of the flange:
[img]http://www.hvaccomplaints.com/wp-content/gallery/bp-flanged-valve/bop-l-shaped-guide-flanged-ball-valve-71110.jpg[/img]
Here's what needs to be done to stop the leak:
Remove the bolts that hold the pipe flange on top of the BOP, either by drilling them down through and out, or by cutting them off, or using a hydraulic turbine, turn the nuts from the bolts, then remove the flange/ already-cut pipe from the bottom flange above the BOP.
Then replace the removed flange with a blind flange or, preferably, a flanged valve with gasket pre-glued above water to its underside.
To prevent the oil pressure from interfering with the attachment of the new flange to the BOP, there must be 2 L-shaped guides - "angle iron" - welded tangentially (first, of course, above water) to the new flange sides, so it can be aligned with the underside of the bottom flange. The new flanged valve can then be slid over the bottom flange.
The parallel angle iron guides must extend out from the new flange far enough so the horizontal leg of the angles fit under the bottom flange and can be pushed far enough under the bottom flange before the gushing oil comes into contact with the new flange. Then the new flange can be slided forward and positioned over the flowing oil. Without the angle iron guides the oil pressure exiting the BOP top pipe will push the new flange up and away from the bottom flange.
Preferably, the new flange will have a ball valve welded to it and the valve will have a connection (for whatever pipe attachment type, or "fitting") on the exit (top) and the valve handle will be attached to the valve stem at a 45 degree angle. This handle will have a drilled hole at its end so a cable can be attached. The cable will extend to a winch on a surface vessel above so the handle can be pulled upward, thereby closing the valve.
As the new flanged valve is guided over the top of the BOP flange it can then be turned clockwise or counter clockwise to align the bolt holes. Once the 2 flanges' bolt holes are in alignment the bolts can be inserted and nuts tightened.
While this procedure is taking place oil will spew out between the 2 flanges and obscure the view of the bolt holes, unless a flanged valve is used instead of a blind flange. The valve, therefore, can be installed in the open position so oil can go straight up and out of the way. Once the bolts are tightened the valve can be closed by winching up the handle, and there you have it, a 100% sealed pipe and no more oil leak!
I submitted this idea on June 11th, 2010 on this site:
[url]http://www.horizonedocs.com/artform.php[/url]
I was told there were 36,000 idea submissions and that it may take a while to respond to mine. Well, no pun intended, there are probably many ideas that were submitted that may stop the spill, but it could be like looking for the needle in the haystack.
The continually updated thread about the Gulf oil leak can also be seen here: [url]http://www.worldsworstoildisaster.org[/url].
My invention story about circulator flanges is relevant to the solution to capping the oil well in the Gulf of Mexico and is just as simple, almost invisible to the eye. Here are the circulator flanges that changed the problematic status quo:
http://www.hvaccomplaints.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Taco_production_sweat__iron_flanges1_resized_61010.jpg.resize.jpeg
My latest flange design is so simple I bet everybody at BP didn't even think of it. It's like not thinking about your nose on your face, but it is there. Here's the rough sketch of the flange design I think can stop the leak:
http://www.hvaccomplaints.com/wp-content/gallery/bp-flanged-valve/bop-l-shaped-guide-flanged-ball-valve-71110.jpg
Here's how the flange can stop the leak:
Remove the bolts that hold the pipe flange on top of the BOP, either by drilling them down through and out, or by cutting them off, or using a hydraulic turbine, turn the nuts from the bolts, then remove the flange/ already-cut pipe from the bottom flange above the BOP.
Then replace the removed flange with a blind flange or, preferably, a flanged valve with gasket pre-glued above water to its underside.
To prevent the oil pressure from interfering with the attachment of the new flange to the BOP, there must be 2 L-shaped guides - "angle iron" - welded tangentially (first, of course, above water) to the new flange sides, so it can be aligned with the underside of the bottom flange. The new flanged valve can then be slid over the bottom flange.
The parallel angle iron guides must extend out from the new flange far enough so the horizontal leg of the angles fit under the bottom flange and can be pushed far enough under the bottom flange before the gushing oil comes into contact with the new flange. Then the new flange can be slided forward and positioned over the flowing oil. Without the angle iron guides the oil pressure exiting the BOP top pipe will push the new flange up and away from the bottom flange.
Preferably, the new flange will have a ball valve welded to it and the valve will have a connection (for whatever pipe attachment type, or "fitting") on the exit (top) and the valve handle will be attached to the valve stem at a 45 degree angle. This handle will have a drilled hole at its end so a cable can be attached. The cable will extend to a winch on a surface vessel above so the handle can be pulled upward, thereby closing the valve.
As the new flanged valve is guided over the top of the BOP flange it can then be turned clockwise or counter clockwise to align the bolt holes. Once the 2 flanges' bolt holes are in alignment the bolts can be inserted and nuts tightened.
While this procedure is taking place oil will spew out between the 2 flanges and obscure the view of the bolt holes, unless a flanged valve is used instead of a blind flange. The valve, therefore, can be installed in the open position so oil can go straight up and out of the way. Once the bolts are tightened the valve can be closed by winching up the handle, and there you have it, a 100% sealed pipe and no more oil leak!
I submitted this idea on June 11th, 2010 on this site:
[url]http://www.horizonedocs.com/artform.php[/url]
I was told there were 36,000 idea submissions and that it may take a while to respond to mine. Well, no pun intended, there are probably many ideas that were submitted that may stop the spill, but it could be like looking for the needle in the haystack.
The continually updated thread about the Gulf oil leak can also be seen here: [url]http://www.worldsworstoildisaster.org[/url].